Відео

@@frank88ster - Thanks for the compliment and great question Frank. Testing done with a Hydrometer is used to find a bad cell as compared to the other cells. Use of an invasive load tester will almost immediately pull down surface charge, which can cause issues with other testing methods. But really your Hydrometer is telling you a similar story just at a de-charged value. Load testing and what’s going on inside the battery is maybe another video I could do but basically the battery should show similar results on all 6 cells when tested. That’s why with the battery charged the hydrometer can help you detect a bad cell(s) - they have different (lower) readings than the others.

I should add that a good battery should show about 10 volts minimum after a 15 second load test with a current draw at half the CCA rating of the battery during the test.

@@bobbeck8697 - Thanks for the kind words. I miss my dad every day. I may post a few more videos about guns that have great histories - I agree, the history is really the treasure. Take care brother. Clay

Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed it and hopefully got your rig all set now!

Fire away, I'll try to answer them...

I bet that is a good tool to use; not everyone watching has that tho... Thanks man!

Thanks man! Yeah, and I’d love to have a diesel one some day! Appreciate you man.

I believe the sensor on the Bellhousing is the “Crank Position Sensor”. If you still have the dizzy, you set timing by pointing the rotor to the #1 cylinder wire post with the #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. Old regular way. Then use a timing light to set timing per manufacturer spec. I don’t recall for your motor what base timing is, but probably close to 8deg BTDC.

@@Texasknowhow Thank You Brother

The pin method of alignment is indeed on the exhaust stroke vs compression. But you just have to lift up the cam sensor out of the gears and rotate it 180 degrees if you want to do the set up on compression. The pin just won’t go through that hole this way. Make sure the connector on the cam sensor is pointing straight back as well. The ECM can take it from there and fine adjust the timing.

Also, it should start quickly so don’t keep cranking if it doesn’t. Something else could be preventing the start up. Ensure all your other stuff is connected. Did you replace anything else besides the timing gears and chain?

@@Texasknowhow me and my mechanic have both gone over this and can't figure it out; everything seems fine. But we have this feeling that it may be 180 out of timing. I put a cotter pin in cam pos sensor hole, and while the engine was aligned at TDC on the compression stroke, I slid the cam pos sensr assembly into its place so the gears slipped into the cam, making sure the cam pos sensor connector faced straight back toward the firewall. Now you have me thinking that I just paid 675.00 to a mechanic when all I needed to do was rotate the cam sensor metal flag 180 degrees.

@@whiptips4374 - THIS is exactly why I made the video and finish the video saying, “dots on gears together which is the #1 cylinder exhaust stroke AND pin in the flag”

You get it figured out? Hopefully it’s back running again!

I snagged a '99 5.0 L from an Explorer about 2 weeks ago. The engine looks to be in good shape - turns over by hand (with a breaker bar) and has compression. was a complete pullout so I have just about everything. Also picked up an AOD Trans from a friend so got the trans to go with it. I need to post up an update now that I have a motor. Thanks for watching, and commenting 89G, appreciate your videos as well. Got to decide if I want to go back to a carb or keep it EFI.... what controller, etc... decisions decisions...

@Texasknowhow the 99 will have P heads. I am running P heads on both of my GT's, currently. They flow decent for a stock head. Can't wait to see an update!

This is embarrassing, but it still is a project in the works after all these years and I've not put shocks on it yet. There are a few of these video series out there where the guys did the Explorer Rearend so you may want to look for those videos for ideas. Thanks for the question and for watching the video! Take Care, Clay

@@Texasknowhowok so im right neat had me worried thanks for the response even though its an old vid😊

It may be a bad purge/vent valve. Check to see if the vent valve is working by jumping voltage to it and listening to see if it clicks open.

If you turn the crank (by hand with a socket on the crank bolt) and feel resistance, stop. I can’t remember if these are interference engines or not (I should know, but don’t) the pistons could be hitting the valves. There may already be damage. But start by taking all the plugs out so it’s easier to mess with. Then take the timing chain off by removing cam sprocket. They are both keyed so you can’t get it wrong going back on. Work to get the sprockets aligned such that the dots are together while they are keyed on their respective shafts. Put the chain back on. Now that you have that correct, follow the short video. By the way, he may have it correct already. The dots only align every other complete turn of the crank. On the non-aligning turns the cam dot will will be opposite side (up on top). Hope this helps.

@@Texasknowhow thank you so much man i will definitely try to the guy that had it replaced it guess he didn’t no how to put the cam back like it should when he started it the motor sounded decent but had like a small knocking sound ? Should I just replace motor or is it worth it to try to save it

@@SLINGING_MUD_SINCE1994 - unrelated to the cam timing these engines are known to develop piston slap which sounds like a rod knock to some degree. Many including myself have daily driven them with the slap for many more miles. If that is what it is…

@@Texasknowhow yea bro haha that’s what it sounds like

Only works if battery is connected to car and running.

I think it was the 1/8” bit. One of the small ones in a bit box kit.

They usually will so you can roll up the windows and lock the doors etc. But once you open the door (any door) they usually get shut off. The "stay on" power will also time out in about 30 sec on most vehicles.

I bet that will really reach out there. Thanks for commenting. Love these model 11s.

These engines will run (very poorly) with that sensor (the cam position sensor where an old distributor would have been) is 180 deg out of sync. This is because the design of the ignition system is a “waste spark” system. There are only 3 coils in the coil pack. Each coil fires two plugs each time. One of the plugs is firing at the correct timing and the other plug is firing during the exhaust stroke of the “waste spark” cylinder. So if you are 180 deg off, it will run, but very poorly as the waste spark isn’t really timed correctly for normal ops. I think you are still 180 out of time. Rotate the distributor cam sensor 180 deg from where you are and point the wires on top almost straight back. If you get the timing close (wires straight back to rear of the vehicle), the ECM can fine tune the spark timing from there. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the quick response! I’ve tried putting my 1999 grand Cherokee in compression and tried exhaustion strokes tdc but still runs rough either way. Is it designed to be setup on exhaust stroke with the pins lined up on the synchronizer? Thanks for all your help!

@@jacobbutler9875 - I can’t explain it any better than the video really. That’s why I made it haha. Maybe walk through your process with another mechanic friend or relative and show them this video prior so they are ready. Only other thing is if your sensor is missing the little hole in the flag (as some have commented) then you just have to look at where I’m aligning mine and get it as close as you can. You can probably get it done that way.

Yeah, if you end up pulling it you can do so much more to complete a “reseal” of the engine. Get that Pesky Heater Hose on the back of the engine as well. Good luck with it!

@@Texasknowhow I had ordered that years ago just in case.

Thanks for the comment man. Enjoy that gun. Keep it in the family. Take care, Clay

Glad it is helping you get it fixed man. Rodeo?, where are you located? Take care, Clay

Gillette Wyoming

Watch the video again closely. The wires break inside their insulation. Usually right inside that transition boot in the door jam. You’ll have to find it like I show in the video…

@Texasknow how how did you prep the frame, did you sandblast or wire wheel and is it OK if some old paint is left behind? thanks for the reply and awesome videos!

It’s been patiently waiting on me to continue the build. I got sidelined for the past 6 years with work and car flips to put two kids through college. They have both graduated now, so I’m moving and trying to get set back up to ramp the channel back up to speed! I have 3 big projects planned, the ‘67 finish out is one of them. Thanks for asking - just that interest in my channel and projects helps with the motivation. 😊

Me too! Ace Hardware only has a small fraction of the Craftsman line…